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National
Blues Museum in St. Louis Gives Chicago a “Blues” Print for Success
By Robin Zimmerman
After traveling down to St. Louis to visit National Blues Museum
in early March, I was all set to write a scathing article blasting
Chicago for blowing off its blues heritage. It would chastise the city
for not capitalizing on its musical connections like St. Louis. It would
call out civic leaders for lacking the vision to create a museum in a
city that bills itself as “the home of the blues.”
I had to scrap that opening paragraph after learning that Chicago
will have its own downtown blues museum, The Chicago Blues Experience at
25 E. Washington, in 2019. This happy news was just announced in
late March 2017, after two previous attempts by the private developer
failed to bring the museum to life; the first attempt aimed for Block
37, the second location at Navy Pier also fell through when a plans for
a hotel replaced it. Hopefully the third time is the charm.
But, with the jury still out on both this and the move to
Millennium Park for the 2017 Blues Fest, we should look to St. Louis for
the many ways they are helping the entire city embrace the blues. After
my whirlwind trip down to the River City, I returned singing the praises
of their well-run museum and how it delivers a dynamic experience for
residents and visitors alike.
Like so many blues journeys, my trip began on the train. But, it
wasn’t the famed route that runs from Chicago to Memphis, Mississippi
and points beyond. We were on the more mundane Chicago to St. Louis run
with computers and cell phones in the cafe car. With Pullman porters and
their Chicago Defender a thing
of the past, today’s travelers look to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi
and the fact that the 7 a.m. Amtrak will have you in St. Louis by 1 p.m.
Much of the train line parallels Highway 55 through flat farmer’s
fields and small towns like Pontiac, Dwight and Lincoln. But, once we
crossed the mighty Mississippi, it’s just minutes to the St. Louis train
depot. Unlike Chicago’s majestic Union Station, the port of entry in St.
Louis is much more pedestrian. This serves as a reminder that St. Louis
always has been a river city and its music reflects the city’s strong
ties to their own “Big Muddy.”
It’s just a short cab ride to the Museum from the train station.
As we passed the Scottrade Center where “Arch Madness” was in full
swing, there was more evidence of the ways St. Louis plays up its blues
heritage. Chicago Blackhawks fans might dislike the St. Louis
Blues but you’ve gotta love their musically themed moniker and logo!
The National Blues Museum is located at 615 Washington, with the
savory scent of the onsite Sugarfire Barbecue beckoning you into the
building. This restaurant opened around the same time as the Blues
Museum and it’s nice to be in such close proximity to the
always-harmonious partnership of down-home blues and delicious barbecue.
At 23,000 square feet, the National Blues Museum is easily
navigable but still packs a strong punch and gives you a real bang for
your buck. There are interactive exhibits that allow visitors to do
everything from cutting a record to jamming with an authentic St. Louis
jug band. It’s visually compelling, too. Various wings draw visitors in
with everything from stacks of suitcases to represent blues migrations
to a giant “selfie” station in front of a full-tilt swing boogie band.
But, all these interactive bells and whistles wouldn’t amount to
a hill of beans if the staff isn’t up to snuff. I am happy to report
that the employees and volunteers at the National Blues Museum have
impeccable customer service skills and a keen knowledge of both the
museum and blues music. From gift shop attendants and greeters to the
executive leadership, they’ve attracted a world-class team to welcome
the many visitors from all over who stream into the museum.
As a Chicagoan, it was gratifying to see our city getting its due
with a section devoted to the Windy City’s contributions to the blues. A
dramatic mural of an old-time Chicago skyline plays homage to Chicago’s
heyday as a recording center and a mecca for West and South Side blues
clubs like 708, Theresa’s and Silvio’s—not to mention the Maxwell Street
blues legacy and contributions from individual artists like Muddy, Buddy
and many others.
But, it’s not just the dudes who have contributed to the
blues—there’s a whole sisterhood who have helped the roots bear fruit.
They, too, got their dues in St. Louis. The traveling photo exhibit,
“Women of the Blues—a Coast to Coast Collection” had a temporary home in
the museum’s spacious light-filled gallery. Curated by Chicagoan Lynn
Orman Weiss, the exhibit was on display through March.
Of course, the hometown advantage goes to St. Louis and that’s
how it should be. The new museum is a great source of pride for the city
and it’s gratifying to see how many individuals, local blues societies
and corporations joined forces to make the museum come to life.
Next to the well-stocked gift shop is an area devoted to St.
Louis blues artists. In yet another example of the synergy between the
museum and local businesses, flyers and club schedules are available in
this section. The museum itself is fast becoming an after hours hot spot
as they feature “Howlin’ Fridays” and other events in the Lumiere Place
Legends Room.
Sherry Nash, Director of External Affairs for the museum noted
that, “The public response has been very positive. The average
attendance is around 100; perfectly comfy and intimate for a venue of
150; but I believe within a year, we’ll have to turn people away—it’s
becoming that popular.” Nash said the museum has recently introduced
Sunday night concerts because of the “continued requests to offer Blues
music as an added learning experience for our visitors.”
We were lucky enough to catch a Howlin’ Friday show while
visiting the museum. The featured performer was the legendary 85-year
old harp player George Brock and his always-tight band.
The music was magnificent, the
acoustics top-notch and several members of the audience won prizes for
knowing info about the museum and the St. Louis Blues Society’s mission.
Nash said they might be reviving the Saturday afternoon show
schedule during the museum’s busy period because “guests just love
walking into the National Blues Museum and hearing live music. There’s
no other museum like it!”
With year one under its belt, the National Blues Museum—and by
extension the city of St. Louis—have gotten major props from news
outlets all around the country. Nash said, “The National Blues Museum
received a lot of national media exposure, notably a spot on
CBS Sunday Morning, as well as
being voted the top travel destination in its inaugural year by CNN,
The New York Times, National
Geographic, NY Daily News and
Smithsonian.”
Nash added, “The museum has created a lot of local pride within
the community because one of the hallmarks of St. Louis, Blues music,
now has a national spotlight that no other U.S. city can claim.
Explore St. Louis, the
Convention and Visitors Bureau for the city, have embraced us and makes
it a point to highlight the museum to all potential convention clients,
which in turns, helps everyone in the city’s hospitality industry from
hotels to restaurants to parking services to transportation.”
As someone who stayed in the adjacent Embassy Suites, gorged on
Sugarfire barbecue, took cabs around the city and threw back a few brews
at Laclede’s Landing, I can certainly vouch for the economic shot in the
arm this museum has given the city.
Besides the boon it has provided local businesses, the museum
helps demonstrate blues fans’ commitment to the music. A passionate,
knowledgeable staff that thinks nothing of stuffing envelopes after
hours or running the soundboard for a Friday night show is the backbone
of the National Blues Museum.
They honor local musicians like Big George Brock and help groom a
younger generation of blues players via their many outreach programs.
In the last few weeks, James Cotton, Lonnie Brooks and St. Louis’
own Chuck Berry have all passed away. This only reinforces the
need to keep their memories and music alive. By the same token, there’s
plenty to learn from the blues legends still among us. The National
Blues Museum recognizes this and has done much to recognize the past
while looking ahead to the future.
As Chicago works to get its for-profit business model off the
ground for the Chicago Blues Experience (which will also encompass a
nonprofit component), one can only hope that the planning committee and
other parties demonstrate the same dedication and strong awareness of
the need to keep the blues alive and well.
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